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rising
to their feet again, and going often through the same forms, uttering at
intervals audible words of prayer. The minarets of this mosque are lofty
and beautiful, and are seen at a great distance as it stands on the highest-ground
in the city. The view also from the ramparts of the citadel is wide and
interesting.
The Mosque of Amer is a thousand years old, the oldest I believe, in Egypt.
It occupies a large space of ground in Old Cairo, but has a dilapidated
and deserted appearance. There is a tradition that when this building falls
the Moslem power will wane. If this be true, the downfall of this strange
power is not far distant; for portions of the old building have already
tumbled down, and the rest seem rapidly tending to the same prostrate condition.
Two stone pillars, standing near together on the same pedestal have been
regarded as a sort of test of salvation. If one can pass between them, he
may hope to enter the paradise of the faithful; but if he has devoted himself
so much to the good things of this life, as not to be able to pass this
test, he may not expect entrance to the Prophet’s heaven.
A pleasant ride four or five miles northward along the Nile, and over a
fine thoroughfare, lined by shady trees, and where we meet numerous trains
of loaded asses and camels, reminding us of the Ishmaelites entering Egypt
with the captive Joseph—brought us to the Shoobra gardens and a palace
of the Viceroy. The extensive gardens are threaded by various walks in excellent
order, and the numerous orange and lemon trees, filled with fruit, and the
odor of geraniums and full blown roses, rendered our walk through them very
agreeable. How unlike the fruit of January at home!
Very different scenery we found a day or two after, in an excursion to the
Petrified Forest, six or seven miles east of Cairo. Our way, after leaving
the city, and the Tombs of Caliphs, was over a broad and dreary desert,
no tree or dwelling relieving the vast and arid desolation.
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