Travel Diary of Mrs. R.P. Eaton:
Europe, Egypt, and Palestine, ca. 1857

Click to view higher resolution image In this vicinity is the church of the Holy Staircase. The Santa Scala, a staircase, consists of twenty-eight marble steps, covered with boards, and said to belong to the house of Pilate; and not only that, but they are affirmed to be the very stairs on which our Lord descended from the Judgement Hall. Hence great virtue is attached to them, and to go up them on one’s knees, and pay a fee for it, produces great blessings to the devotee here and hereafter. So an attending priest assumed us, though we did not make the trial. Others however, were continually plodding up, and kissing the stairs as they proceeded. It was on these stairs, I think, that Luther’s eyes were measurably opened to see the absurdities of Romanism.

Who has not heard of the Vatican, if he has not heard its thunders? It is an irregular pile or collection of buildings, adjoining St. Peter’s on the right, and embracing some thousands of rooms and halls. Squads of French soldiers are continually standing round the entrance, and one generally finds a large of them paraded or being drilled in the square of St. Peter’s. Several long and broad staircases lead to the halls and museum of the Vatican, where are gathered and preserved an immense number of works of art. The sculpture galleries are very extensive, and you range through them in delighted admiration of the ancient, interesting, and beautiful and grand productions of the chisel. You linger long before such statues as the Laocoon and Apollo Belvedere, and wonder at the genius that could invest marble with such elements of life, passion and power. You see many busts of persons distinguished in historical and classical literature, and are gratified with a truthful representation of their faces and features. Two of the most celebrated pictures in the world are in the Vatican. The Last Judgement by Michael Angelo, covers entirely the farther wall of the Sistine Chapel. The light is not good, and one fails of the profoundest impression this great painting is adapted to produce.

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